Please select the sense that most closely represents the issue with your vehicle.
If there are no identifiable symptoms but something is clearly broken, click the ‘Not Working’ category
Step 2 Narrow down the problem:
Choose a symptom:
What does it looks like?
What colour is the smoke?
When and where do you see black smoke?
Why is this happening?
Most automotive engines need carefully measured amounts of air and fuel to run optimally. Anything responsible for the momement, measurment or filtering of air could cause the issue. In a fuel-injected engine (of which you almost certainly have) a host of sensors perform these measurements, and an assembly of hoses and boxes filter and move the air from the outside of the car into your engine. If anything is off, the mixture can be thrown off, allowing too much fuel to be burned and creating black smoke.
Is the air filter dirty?
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side your air filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It’s an air filter - of course it’s going to be dirty. What we’re trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it’s either partially or fully clogged.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the Air Filter
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side your air filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It’s an air filter - of course it’s going to be dirty. What we’re trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it’s either partially or fully clogged.
Preliminary diagnoses:
If the air filter looks good, there might be an issue with a fuel injection sensor
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side your air filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It’s an air filter - of course it’s going to be dirty. What we’re trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it’s either partially or fully clogged.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the Air Filter
Preliminary diagnoses:
Tell me more
There is only one way to verify if one of the sensors has indeed gone bad, you need to have this vehicle hooked up to an engine analyzer. A skilled mechanic will be able to determine exactly what is wrong from the results of the analyzer
The engine sensor could be bad
When and where do you see white smoke?
Tell me more
Your engine is basically made of two major components: the cylinder head and the block. Think of them as a top and bottom end, and where they are go together requires a special seal to keep air and coolant from escaping. This is seal is provided by a head gasket. If it is damaged, it will not seal properly, allowing coolant and oil to mix. When that coolant burns, it burns white. There are tests a mechanic can perform to see if it is indeed your head gasket that is damaged, but if it is, it will need to be replaced. Though the gasket itself is rather inexpensive, the labor necessary to remove the cylinder head can be significant. And this assumes that the entire engine doesn’t need to be replaced or rebuilt (this depends on how bad the head gasket failure is, and how long ago it occurred). Your best bet is to find a reputable garage and explain to the mechanic exactly what we’ve explained to you
Do you notice white smoke even after the engine has warmed up?
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely you have a blown head gasket.
You'll need a new head gasket
Preliminary diagnoses:
Tell me more
Your engine is basically made of two major components: the cylinder head and the block. Think of them as a top and bottom end, and where they are go together requires a special seal to keep air and coolant from escaping. This is seal is provided by a head gasket. If it is damaged, it will not seal properly, allowing coolant and oil to mix. When that coolant burns, it burns white. There are tests a mechanic can perform to see if it is indeed your head gasket that is damaged, but if it is, it will need to be replaced. Though the gasket itself is rather inexpensive, the labor necessary to remove the cylinder head can be significant. And this assumes that the entire engine doesn’t need to be replaced or rebuilt (this depends on how bad the head gasket failure is, and how long ago it occurred). Your best bet is to find a reputable garage and explain to the mechanic exactly what we’ve explained to you
This is normal and just condensation steaming off.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the Air Filter
Tell me more
Your engine is basically made of two major components: the cylinder head and the block. Think of them as a top and bottom end, and where they are go together requires a special seal to keep air and coolant from escaping. This is seal is provided by a head gasket. If it is damaged, it will not seal properly, allowing coolant and oil to mix. When that coolant burns, it burns white. There are tests a mechanic can perform to see if it is indeed your head gasket that is damaged, but if it is, it will need to be replaced. Though the gasket itself is rather inexpensive, the labor necessary to remove the cylinder head can be significant. And this assumes that the entire engine doesn’t need to be replaced or rebuilt (this depends on how bad the head gasket failure is, and how long ago it occurred). Your best bet is to find a reputable garage and explain to the mechanic exactly what we’ve explained to you
Preliminary diagnoses:
This is normal and just condensation steaming off
Tell me more
There is only one way to verify if one of the sensors has indeed gone bad, you need to have this vehicle hooked up to an engine analyzer. A skilled mechanic will be able to determine exactly what is wrong from the results of the analyzer
Preliminary diagnoses:
The engine sensor could be bad
Preliminary diagnoses:
Tell me more
There is only one way to verify if one of the sensors has indeed gone bad, you need to have this vehicle hooked up to an engine analyzer. A skilled mechanic will be able to determine exactly what is wrong from the results of the analyzer
The engine sensor could be bad
What other symptoms are you noticing?
Tell me more
You'll need either a ring job or a new engine. As one would expect, this is going to cost some serious money. If your vehicle is not under warranty, first take it to a machine shop that specializes in your vehicle's make and have the mechanic positively verify that the rings are indeed bad. This can be done with a "wet compression test"
Preliminary diagnoses:
The piston rings are probably bad
Tell me more
You will need to have the valve stem seals replaced. If this vehicle is still under warranty, this will be covered. If not, this repair can be costly. Only have the valve stem seals replaced and nothing more. Once this is done, see if it corrects the problem. In most cases it should. If not, you’ll probably need a complete valve job
Preliminary diagnoses:
The valve stem seals may be bad
Are the tires on this vehicle low on air?
How do I check?
Take a look at the side of your tire. There you will see recommended tire pressure levels. Use a tire pressure gauge (available at any auto parts store) to check the tire pressures and make sure they fall within the recommended range
Preliminary diagnoses:
Add air to the tires. Make sure you don't exceed the pressure level as specified in the vehicle's owner's manual
Is there a lot of dirt on the air filter?
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side of the filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It’s an air filter- of course it’s going to be dirty. What we’re trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it’s either partially or fully clogged
How do I check?
You’ll need to have a mechanic replace either the PCV valve or its connecting hose depending on which is clogged. If you ignore this problem for long, you will waste money because of poor gas mileage and worse, the overly rich air/fuel mixture will likely damage the catalytic converter. In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items related to the above. For now, just stick with the replacement of the PCV valve and its hose. This should correct the problem. You can always return at another time for the other items the mechanic suggested. To check for oxygen sensor issues, take this vehicle to a garage for a scope-based diagnostic checkup. The mechanic will hook your engine up to a scope analyzer from which they should be able to tell if the oxygen sensor is the culprit. If so, have it replaced
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the air filter. If this doesn't solve the problem, please rerun this diagnostic for further analysis
Preliminary diagnoses:
A clogged PCV system or faulty oxygen system is likely causing poor gas mileage. Have a mechanic check these systems
Is there a lot of dirt on the air filter?
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side of the filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It’s an air filter- of course it’s going to be dirty. What we’re trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it’s either partially or fully clogged
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the air filter. If this doesn't solve the problem, please rerun this diagnostic for further analysis
How do I check?
You’ll need to have a mechanic replace either the PCV valve or its connecting hose depending on which is clogged. If you ignore this problem for long, you will waste money because of poor gas mileage and worse, the overly rich air/fuel mixture will likely damage the catalytic converter. In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items related to the above. For now, just stick with the replacement of the PCV valve and its hose. This should correct the problem. You can always return at another time for the other items the mechanic suggested. To check for oxygen sensor issues, take this vehicle to a garage for a scope-based diagnostic checkup. The mechanic will hook your engine up to a scope analyzer from which they should be able to tell if the oxygen sensor is the culprit. If so, have it replaced
Preliminary diagnoses:
A clogged PCV system or faulty oxygen system is likely causing poor gas mileage. Have a mechanic check these systems
Why is this a problem?
Uneven tire wear is not only bad for your wallet, but also indicates less-than-ideal contact between the tire and the traveling surface, which can be dangerous, especially in low-grip situations
Where on the tire are you seeing wear?
What side of the tire is wearing abnormally?
Tell me more
It’s a good idea to have this done soon because the longer you wait, the worse the tire(s) will get. Some mechanics may tell you they can’t do an alignment properly without first replacing one or more front end parts. While this may be true, if this is what a mechanic tells you, get a second opinion before proceeding with any such repairs
Preliminary diagnoses:
You'll need to have an alignment job done on this vehicle
Tell me more
It’s a good idea to have this done soon because the longer you wait, the worse the tire(s) will get. Some mechanics may tell you they can’t do an alignment properly without first replacing one or more front end parts. While this may be true, if this is what a mechanic tells you, get a second opinion before proceeding with any such repairs
Preliminary diagnoses:
You'll need to have an alignment job done on this vehicle
Preliminary diagnoses:
One of your tires is underinflated. Add the precise amount of air to bring the tire(s) in question to an appropriate pressure (see the tire sidewall). Refer to this vehicle's owner's manual for the correct air pressure
Preliminary diagnoses:
One of your tires is overinflated. Let some air out of whichever tire is overinflated. Refer to this vehicle's owner's manual or tire sidewall for the correct air pressure
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is a tire balancing issue. Have a mechanic balance the wheel in question and replace any overly worn tires
Preliminary diagnoses:
One of your tires is underinflated. Add the precise amount of air to bring the tire(s) in question to an appropriate pressure (see the tire sidewall). Refer to this vehicle's owner's manual for the correct air pressure
Preliminary diagnoses:
One of your tires is overinflated. Let some air out of whichever tire is overinflated. Refer to this vehicle's owner's manual or tire sidewall for the correct air pressure
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is a tire balancing issue. Have a mechanic balance the wheel in question and replace any overly worn tires
Which warning light did you see?
Check the brake fluid level. Refer to your owner’s manual if you are unsure how to do this. Is the level low? There should be a “low” marking on the reservoir
What is causing this?
This usually indicates that the brake fluid level is low or that there is a pressure imbalance in the brake system
Preliminary diagnoses:
You need to add brake fluid. Buy yourself a can of the brake fluid recommended by the manufacturer and carefully add just enough to top off the brake fluid reservoir. Check your owner's manual if you are unsure where this is located
Tell me more
Why tow it? Because, something is seriously wrong with the brakes and therefore it's not safe to drive. If you're lucky, the problem may be simple and inexpensive. Regardless, whenever the brake warning light comes on, it's always serious since your safety is at risk
Preliminary diagnoses:
First off, make sure the parking brake is disengaged, as it may be triggering the light. If that doesn't work then you have a pressure imbalance in the system. In this situation you should have this vehicle towed to a reputable garage and serviced
Tell me more
An anti-lock brake system (ABS) only kicks in when the driver steps really hard on the brake pedal (e.g. during "panic" braking). So, a fault in the anti-lock brake system doesn't mean you don't have brakes - it simply means the anti-lock brakes will not work or at least will not work well
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have a mechanic diagnose and fix the ABS system
You will need to check the oil level (please refer to your owner’s manual if you are unsure how to do this). Is the oil level low?
Tell me more
This is a serious situation. It indicates (assuming the oil light sensor is working properly) that there's a lack of oil pressure inside the engine, which, depending on the extent of that "lacking," could be a death knell for your engine. Low oil is not something to mess around with
Preliminary diagnoses:
Add enough of the factory recommended oil type and viscosity so that your oil capacity is at -- not above, not below -- appropriate capacity
Tell me more
Please do not drive this vehicle. Why? Because you may cause the engine to freeze up. In other words, don't gamble on the fact that the cause of the oil light may simply be a faulty oil pressure sensor or its wiring. Although this is certainly a possibility, it is rare. More than likely, the oil warning light came on because the oil pressure is indeed low (probably caused by a bad oil pump)
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the vehicle towed to the nearest reputable garage, and ask the mechanic to inspect both the oil pump and oil pressure sensor/wiring
Did the light stay on?
Tell me more
If the engine did not completely stop and the vehicle is drivable, do the following: open the hood of this vehicle and locate the alternator (refer to a repair manual if you aren't sure where it is). After you've found the alternator, locate its drive belt. Does the belt appear to be intact? If not, get this vehicle towed to the nearest garage and have a new belt put on. However, if the belt is intact, then the alternator itself has most likely failed. Again, get a tow to the nearest garage for a new or rebuilt alternator
Preliminary diagnoses:
First off, have the battery tested to see if it's dying. If it tests out ok, you either need to replace the alternator belt or the alternator itself
Tell me more
Have this problem taken care of soon. If you don't, you can be sure that one day the battery light won't just flicker but rather come on steady. When that happens, you will have only a few minutes of driving left before the engine dies. If the mechanic says you need a new alternator, don't be surprised if he tells you that he'll have to replace something called the "voltage regulator" as well
Preliminary diagnoses:
First off, have the battery tested to see if it's dying. If it tests out ok, take this vehicle to a mechanic and have the alternator and its belt inspected. Hopefully, all you'll need is to have the belt adjusted or replaced. If not, the alternator itself will have to be replaced
Tell me more
This light is also known as the Malfunction Indicator Lamp and may be seen on the dash as 'Check Engine', 'Service Engine Soon' or an icon in the shape of an engine. In the early years of Check Engine lights, a few carmakers set up the lights to go on once the car hit a certain mileage, so if you have an older vehicle keep this in mind. In 1996, all carmakers were forced to conform to a standardized format for storage and retrieval of DTCs.
Preliminary diagnoses:
This light generally indicates an engine or electrical problem has been detected. If the light has come on in your car it is best to take it to the dealer or a trusted independent mechanic shop and have the diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) retrieved from the car's computer. These will indicate why the light has been activated.
When does the gauge read hot?
Is this vehicle equipped with an electric fan?
Tell me more
This particular problem suggests that there's something wrong with the radiator fan (i.e. the one that cools the engine). The main purpose of the fan is to keep the engine cool when the vehicle is either moving slowly or stopped, such as in prolonged, slow traffic.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a reputable mechanic and have them inspect the electric fan unit.
Tell me more
With the engine off, open the hood of this vehicle and check the fan belt for looseness. If the belt seems pretty tight, the problem most likely lies with the fan clutch. In this case, find a reputable garage to confirm that the problem is indeed the fan clutch, and replace it if necessary .
Preliminary diagnoses:
The issue is a slipping alternator belt or faulty fan clutch. Have this checked out by aprofessional mechanic.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Check the owner's manual or ask an expert. Once you know, rerun this diagnostic or, alternatively, visit a mechanic.
Is the coolant level low?
Tell me more
Using a clean, empty container, make a 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze (any auto parts store will carry anti-freeze). Then, when the engine is cold (say, in the morning), remove the radiator cap and pour just enough fluid to sufficiently cover the little "fins" inside the radiator. Replace the cap when done. How did the coolant level get to be low? Has the radiator boiled over once or twice in the past? This would account for it. Alternatively, there may be a leak somewhere in the cooling system. Have you ever noticed a puddle of coolant underneath this vehicle? If you have not, maybe it's an internal leak, like that which results from a blown head gasket. If this is the case, white smoke will come out of the exhaust.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Check your coolant level, as lack of coolant will cause the engine to overheat. Top off the radiator with coolant if need be.
Tell me more
First, clean any bugs or debris off the face of the radiator with hot water and a soft brush. Next, have the entire cooling system backflushed. This is a procedure in which water is run through the cooling system in the opposite direction of normal coolant flow. This will remove much of the rust and particle buildup, restoring the efficiency of the radiator as well as other parts of the cooling system. You can do a backflush yourself quite simply with just a bit of technical knowledge and elbow grease. Any auto parts store will carry a backflush kit.
Preliminary diagnoses:
The cooling system may be clogged and will have to be backflushed.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Your coolant level may be low. Refer to your owner's manual if you are unsure how to check this. Alternatively, take the car to a professional mechanic.
What is this happening?
This problem can often be traced to one of the following: lack of coolant, a collapsed radiator hose, a bad water pump or a bad thermostat .
Is the coolant level low?
What is this happening?
Using a clean, empty container, make a 50/50 mix of water and anti-freeze (any auto parts store will carry anti-freeze). Then, when the engine is cold (say, in the morning), remove the radiator cap and pour just enough fluid to sufficiently cover the little "fins" inside the radiator. Replace the cap when done. How did the coolant level get to be low? Has the radiator boiled over once or twice in the past? This would account for it. Alternatively, there may be a leak somewhere in the cooling system. Have you ever noticed a puddle of coolant underneath this vehicle? If you have not, maybe it's an internal leak, like that which results from a blown head gasket. If this is the case, white smoke will come out of the exhaust as you're driving. This is caused by coolant leaking into the engine's combustion chambers and burning off as steam. Whatever the case, please have this vehicle checked out by a mechanic .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Lack of coolant is causing the engine to overheat. Top off the radiator with coolant.
What is this happening?
Look in your owner's manual for help locating the radiator hoses. Make sure none of them have collapsed .
Did one of the coolant hoses collapse?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the hose which is collapsing. Any auto parts store will carry a new hose.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a reputable repair garage and ask the mechanic to determine if the problem lies with the water pump or the thermostat. Have the necessary parts replaced.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Visit a mechanic for further diagnosis.
How do I check?
Look in your owner's manual for help locating the radiator hoses. Make sure none of them have collapsed .
Did one of the coolant hoses collapse?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the hose which is collapsing. Any auto parts store will carry a new hose.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a reputable repair garage and ask the mechanic to determine if the problem lies with the water pump or the thermostat. Have the necessary parts replaced.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Visit a mechanic for further diagnosis.
Where is the steam coming from?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Check the radiator cap when the engine is cold. If anything seems odd about the radiator cap, replace it and see if this corrects the boil over problem. Otherwise, have the entire cooling system backflushed in order to remove all of the old coolant. Refill with a 50/50 mixture of water and anti-freeze.
Preliminary diagnoses:
This is normal and just condensation steaming off.
Choose a symptom:
What do you hear?
Why is this happening?
This pinging sound indicates "pre-ignition". Pre-ignition means the air/fuel mixture in the engine's combustion chambers is igniting sooner than it should .
When does the engine ping?
Have you been using regular grade gasoline?
Tell me more
Higher octane fuels are those with a rating of 91 or above and are usually called premium gasolines. The octane rating is easy to determine, as it's always displayed on the face of the gas pump. Don't ignore the pinging noise. This is your engine talking to you. If left uncorrected, pre-ignition "ping" will eventually destroy an engine .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Use a higher octane gasoline from now on, or at least when you anticipate driving at altitude.
Tell me more
High octane fuels burn slower and are therefore more resistant to pre-ignition. High octane fuels have a rating of 91 or above and are often called premium gasolines.The octane rating is easy to determine, as it's always displayed on the front of the gas pump .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There isn't too much you can do since this is just a normal consequence of driving at higher altitudes. However, you may want to try using a high octane fuel the next time you anticipate driving at high altitude.
Tell me more
Why is the engine getting hot? Modern cooling systems are designed to cool the engine in even the warmest climates and conditions. Additionally, most factory temperature gauges are notoriously slow to move. This all means that if your temperature gauge is showing warm, something is wrong, and should be repaired immediately. A hot engine will fail very quickly, even if it seems to otherwise be performing normally .
Preliminary diagnoses:
In general, pre-ignition and thus power loss are just normal consequences of a very hot engine. Have a mechanic check your cooling system
Tell me more
The best way to remove deposits is to have it done professionally by a qualified mechanic through a process known as "chemical decarbonization", where basic chemicals are carefully ingested by the engine that will help unseat and burn off this nasty crust. This procedure is relatively inexpensive and can be performed by any specialty shop .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and ask the mechanic to test the EGR valve. If the valve is indeed bad, have it replaced. Also, check the spark plugs for carbon deposits
When do you experience this?
Tell me more
Start by checking that your plugs wires are fully seated on the top of the plug. To test this, you can pull the wire completely off the plug and put it back on (which should reward you with a satisfying "click" or other sign that it's all the way on). Also be sure they are on in the correct order, especially if they've been replaced recently. Next, make sure moisture hasn't made its way into the spark plug "wells". If it has rained hard recently, or you've gone through a car wash, poor-fitting or worn plug wires can allow water where in, and moisture will kill a spark quick. If all that does indeed check out, try replacing the spark plugs and spark wires and hold off for now on the distributor cap. New plugs and wires may be all that's necessary to cure the misfiring. But, if this doesn't correct the problem, then go ahead and replace the distributor cap. If you don't want to do the work yourself, you'll need what most garages call a "maintenance tune-up". This should cover the items mentioned above, depending on your engine and general factory recommendations. If the vehicle still shakes even after replacing the distributor cap, you could have a burned valve. Take this vehicle to a garage to confirm this and have any necessary work done .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Chances are the engine is misfiring in one or more cylinders.
Tell me more
In most cases, this will fix the problem. However, if it doesn't, you'll need to take this vehicle to a garage for a complete analysis. You can buy new plugs and wires at any auto parts store. If you need help in replacing the plugs/wires, refer to a repair manual which covers this vehicle or take it to a mechanic.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace both the spark plugs and wires.
When does this occur?
Does happen only while slowing down?
Tell me more
The most likely culprit is a bad diverter valve. However, it is still possible that something else is causing this vehicle to backfire. If you've got the time, get several opinions from various repair shops and then make a decision based on all the information.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and ask the mechanic to check the air injection system, in particular its diverter valve.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and have the mechanic check the valves and timing. The valves could be burned or simply out of adjustment. Timing problems are generally caused by a slipping timing belt or chain.
Does this starting problem only happen in wet conditions?
Tell me more
There isn't much you can do in this situation except, in the future, park this vehicle in dry place when you anticipate rain. This should help .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is probably moisture in the distributor cap. If there is, have it replaced.
Tell me more
Fuel injection systems are complex and hard to diagnose. If this vehicle is not under warranty, take it to a mechanic that has expertise with this particular make/model. It is highly advisable that you get a second opinion if the first mechanic suggests that you need a new fuel injection system. Very often the problem is not the fuel injection system itself but rather one of its sensors. A skilled mechanic will be able to determine if all the sensors are working properly .
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely there is a problem with the fuel injection system. Have a professional mechanic look at the car.
Does the oil light come on?
Tell me more
Don't delay in having the necessary repairs done since a poorly lubricated engine will quickly break down .
Preliminary diagnoses:
In order to boost engine lubrication, the oil pressure has to be increased, and the oil pressure is probably low due to either a clogged oil pan screen or a bad oil pump. Ask a mechanic to determine the exact cause of this engine's low oil pressure.
Why is this happening?
A ticking noise often indicates the engine is not being fully lubricated. Without enough oil, metal starts contacting metal -- thus the tapping sound. This is either because it lacks oil or it has low oil pressure, so let's start by checking the oil level.
Does this engine have a low oil level?
Tell me more
Don't delay in having the necessary repairs done since a poorly lubricated engine will quickly break down.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Add enough of the factory recommended oil type and viscosity so that your oil capacity is at -- not above, not below -- appropriate capacity.
Tell me more
You will need to take this vehicle to a mechanic for analysis and repair. If this engine has adjustable valves, it may only need a minor adjustment. As far as the exhaust manifold is concerned, have the mechanic inspect the exhaust manifold bolts, as they may be loose.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Loose valves or a leaking exhaust manifold are likely the issue.
Where is the squealing noise coming from?
Tell me more
You will need to take this vehicle to a mechanic for analysis and repair. If this engine has adjustable valves, it may only need a minor adjustment. As far as the exhaust manifold is concerned, have the mechanic inspect the exhaust manifold bolts, as they may be loose.
Preliminary diagnoses:
This generally indicates either a worn drive belt or faulty alternator. Apply some silicone spray on the underside of the drive belt. This may provide you with some temporary relief of this squealing noise. Otherwise, you'll need to take this vehicle to a repair garage and have a mechanic make the necessary repairs
Does the pedal go close to the floor?
Tell me more
Take your vehicle to a shop and explain to the mechanic exactly what you learned here. New pads will both give you greater braking power and correct the squeal. In addition to new brake pads, it will probably be a good idea to have the discs machined -- or "turned" -- to ensure proper alignment with the new pads.
Preliminary diagnoses:
This vehicle needs new brake pads. The noise you are hearing is the brake pad wear sensor. It is designed to let you know your pads are wearing thin
Tell me more
Brake squeal is often not an indication that one's brakes are shot. As long as the brakes are working well and the brake pads are not too worn, the squealing noise could just be an annoyance. As a quick fix, you may want to visit your local parts store and try some of their "brake squeal" products, which are inexpensive and easy to apply. Alternatively, you may want to take this vehicle in for a brake inspection.
Preliminary diagnoses:
The high frequency vibration of the brake pads is causing squeal. This is normal behavior for some cars
Check the tire pressure. Are the tire pressure readings unusually low or high?
Tell me more
Take your vehicle to a shop and explain to the mechanic exactly what you learned here. New pads will both give you greater braking power and correct the squeal. In addition to new brake pads, it will probably be a good idea to have the discs machined -- or "turned" -- to ensure proper alignment with the new pads.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Add or release air from whichever tires aren't properly inflated. Hopefully this will eliminate the screeching
Tell me more
Brake squeal is often not an indication that one's brakes are shot. As long as the brakes are working well and the brake pads are not too worn, the squealing noise could just be an annoyance. As a quick fix, you may want to visit your local parts store and try some of their "brake squeal" products, which are inexpensive and easy to apply. Alternatively, you may want to take this vehicle in for a brake inspection.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have an alignment job done on this vehicle
When does this happen?
Tell me more
Unfortunately, this is usually an expensive procedure. If this vehicle is not under warranty, you'll have to shop around for the best price. Make sure you only have the job done at a shop that specializes in this type of work.
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely something has gone wrong with the valves. You will need a valve job
How do I do this?
The process of replacing the plugs is fairly simple. Use a deep socket ratchet to unscrew the old plug and then simply screw in the new one. Remember to replace the spark plug wire and make sure it is the wire which came off the old plug you are currently replacing.
You will need to either check your spark plugs or have a mechanic check them. Once removed, do the spark plugs look dirty?
Tell me more
You can either buy the regular (copper core) spark plugs or the longer life, platinum plugs. Copper core plugs -- often the choice for high-performance, turbocharged vehicles -- can last up to 30,000 miles, whereas platinum plugs can go 60,000 miles or more, depending on the application. The platinum plugs are of course more expensive but are probably worth the extra cost in terms of future maintenance.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace all the spark plugs.
Tell me more
Fuel injection systems are complex and hard to diagnose, and the same goes for coils and spark plug wires. If this vehicle is not under warranty, take it to a mechanic that has expertise in this particular make/model. We highly recommend you get a second opinion if the first mechanic suggests that you need a new fuel injection system. Very often the problem is not the fuel injection system itself but, rather one of its sensors. A skilled mechanic will be able to determine if all the sensors are working properly.
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely you have a problem with either the fuel injection system or a bad coil/spark plug wire. It is best to have this checked out by a mechanic.
What kind of noise are your brakes making?
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First, you'll need new brake pads. Second, you'll need to at least have the brake discs machined in order to smooth out the damage done by the grinding. If the damage is extreme, the mechanic may suggest new discs.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Your brake pads need to be replaced and your rotors may need replacement or resurfacing.
Preliminary diagnoses:
This is likely due to loose anti-rattle springs or loose caliper bolts. Take this vehicle to a reputable garage and ask the mechanic to pull the tire where the rattling is coming from and check for any problems.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a reputable repair shop and ask the mechanic to check the suspected brake unit. A loose or worn front suspension component may also be to blame.
When do you hear this clunk?
Check the transmission fluid level. Is it low?
How do I do this?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside .
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Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one).
Preliminary diagnoses:
A wrong fluid level is affecting the hydraulics of transmission. If the level is too high, you can simply drain some out (refer to the owner's manual for instructions). If the level is too low, add some fluid (again, refer to the owner's manual).
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and have the mechanic check both the engine mounts and driveline joints. Have this problem taken care of soon since any jarring effect will eventually take its toll on the transmission.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and have the mechanic check the driveline joints (either CV-Joints or U-Joints, depending if this vehicle is front- or rear-wheel drive, respectively). Have this problem taken care of soon since the jarring effect will eventually take its toll on the transmission.
Check the transmission fluid level. Is it low?
How do I do this?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside .
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one).
Preliminary diagnoses:
A wrong fluid level is affecting the hydraulics of transmission. If the level is too high, you can simply drain some out (refer to the owner's manual for instructions). If the level is too low, add some fluid (again, refer to the owner's manual).
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Unfortunately, there will be a hefty charge for such an inspection even if the mechanic doesn't go ahead with any repairs. Hopefully, this vehicle's drivetrain is covered under warranty -- otherwise you'll be facing a large repair bill (that is, if you decide to go ahead with any repairs suggested by the mechanic). However, if you ignore the noise and continue to drive the vehicle, the transmission will most likely destroy itself in time .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a transmission specialist. It will be necessary for the mechanic to open up the transmission for this (there's just no way of knowing otherwise).
Is the sound coming from the front or rear of the car?
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First, you'll need to determine if this vehicle has shocks or struts in the front. If it has shocks, having them replaced should correct the problem. If not, this condition could lie with the springs, but that's unlikely since springs generally last the life of the vehicle. If this vehicle has struts, you can either have the entire strut replaced or, in many cases, simply replace the strut cartridges. Call a local dealer's service department and ask if the front struts of the make/model in question have replaceable cartridges. To confirm worn or faulty shocks/strut cartridges do the following -- step down on the front bumper several times to get it bouncing and let off. If it continues to bounce more than once, the shocks/strut cartridges are worn or faulty. Take care of this problem very soon because with each "thump", certain front end components are being damaged.
Preliminary diagnoses:
The front shocks or front strut cartridges are worn or faulty. Have them inspected and replaced if need be.
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First, you'll need to determine if this vehicle has shocks or struts in the rear. If it has shocks, having them replaced should correct the problem. If not, this condition could lie with the springs, but that's unlikely since springs generally last the life of the vehicle. If this vehicle has struts, you can either have the entire strut replaced or, in many cases, simply replace the strut cartridges. Call a local dealer's service department and ask if the rear struts of the make/model in question have replaceable cartridges. To confirm worn or faulty shocks/strut cartridges do the following -- step down on the rear bumper several times to get it bouncing and let off. If it continues to bounce more than once, the shocks/strut cartridges are worn or faulty. Take care of this problem very soon because with each "thump", certain front end .
Preliminary diagnoses:
The rear shocks or rear strut cartridges are worn or faulty. Have them inspected and replaced if need be
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First, you'll need to determine if this vehicle has shocks or struts. If shocks, having them replaced should correct the problem. If not, this condition could lie with the springs but that's unlikely since springs generally last the life of the vehicle. If this vehicle has struts, you can either have the entire strut replaced or, in many cases, simply have the strut cartridges replaced. Call a local dealer's service department and ask if the struts of the make/model in question have replaceable cartridges. To confirm worn or faulty shocks/strut cartridges do the following -- step down on the front and rear bumpers several times to get it bouncing and let off. If it continues to bounce more than once, the shocks/strut cartridges are worn/faulty. Take care of this problem very soon because, with each "thump", certain rear end components are becoming more damaged (most notably the "bushings").
Preliminary diagnoses:
Either your front or rear shocks or strut cartridges are worn/faulty. Have them inspected and replaced if need be.
Is this vehicle front-wheel drive?
Why is this happening?
This particular noise can often be traced to something called a "CV Joint" (if so equipped).
Preliminary diagnoses:
A faulty CV Joint is likely causing the noise. Take this vehicle to a garage and ask the mechanic to find out exactly what is causing the clicking noise.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have a mechanic inspect the front end of this vehicle and make the necessary repairs. Take care of this problem soon since the clicking noise is a warning of something more serious to come
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have a mechanic inspect the vehicle. If it is front-wheel drive, a faulty CV Joint is likely.
Are the dash lights out or extremely dim?
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When the solenoid goes bad, it's probably a good idea to have the entire starter and solenoid unit replaced with a rebuilt one. Call various shops for the best price.
Preliminary diagnoses:
The solenoid needs to be replaced. We recommend having a professional mechanic do the work.
Take a look at the battery terminals. Is there a noticeable amount of corrosion buildup on the terminals?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have a mechanic clean the battery terminals. If this doesn't help the issue, have your battery tested. It may be dead.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the battery tested. Chances are it is dead and will need to be replaced. This could also signify an issue with the starter.
Choose a symptom:
What do you smell?
Check the air filter. Is it dirty?
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side of the filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It's an air filter -- of course it's going to be dirty. What we're trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it's either partially or fully clogged.
Preliminary diagnoses:
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Any auto parts store will carry a good selection of filters. If this doesn't solve the problem, please rerun this diagnostic. Considering the low cost of this repair, get a replacement air filter soon, since the unburned gas vapors will slowly destroy the catalytic converter.
Replace the air filter.
Preliminary diagnoses:
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You'll need to verify that one of the sensors is indeed bad. The most precise way to do this is to have a mechanic hook the vehicle up to an engine analyzer. The cost for such analysis is relatively inexpensive compared to possible future towing and repair bills. The analyzer will typically display one or more trouble codes, which the mechanic will use to determine if a sensor has failed. If a sensor has failed, have it replaced .
Have the fuel injection sensor checked by a mechanic.
Preliminary diagnoses:
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If you want to check on this issue, locate the hose which leads up to the evaporator drain pan. Refer to a manual specific to this vehicle if you need help in finding it. Once you locate the hose, clean any mud or debris from it. However, if the end of the hose isn't clogged with any debris, the clog must either be further up the hose or in the base of the drain pan. Once the drain pan is draining properly again, it will take at least a couple of days for the algae-like organisms to dry up and for the mildew odor to go away.
The drain pan of the A/C evaporator unit isn't draining. It is best to have an A/C specialist look at this, as the clog may be further up in the system and difficult to access.
Choose a symptom:
What do you feel?
When do you feel this vibration or shaking?
What is vibrating or shaking?
When braking, is there also vibration coming mainly from the front end?
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If the bearings are OK, you'll need to have the front brake discs machined to correct their warp. Now, after the discs are corrected, the old pads may not "mate" or align well with the newly machined discs, so you should replace the front pads as well .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is an alignment issue with the front brake pads and discs. Take this vehicle to a reputable garage and ask the mechanic to check the front wheel bearings for wear or looseness and the front rotors for "warp.".
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If the bearings are OK, you'll need to have the rear brake discs machined to correct their warp. Now, after the discs are corrected, the old pads may not "mate" or align well with the newly machined discs, so you should replace the front pads as well.
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is an alignment issue between the rear brake pads and discs. Take this vehicle to a reputable garage and ask the mechanic to first check the rear wheel bearings for wear or looseness.
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If the bearings are OK, you'll need to have the rear brake discs machined to correct their warp. Now, after the discs are corrected, the old pads may not "mate" or align well with the newly machined discs, so you should replace the front pads as well .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is an alignment issue with the front brake pads and discs. Take this vehicle to a reputable garage and ask the mechanic to check the front wheel bearings for wear or looseness and the front rotors for "warp.".
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If the bearings are OK, you'll need to have the rear brake discs machined to correct their warp. Now, after the discs are corrected, the old pads may not "mate" or align well with the newly machined discs, so you should replace the front pads as well .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is an alignment issue with the front brake pads and discs. Take this vehicle to a reputable garage and ask the mechanic to check the front wheel bearings for wear or looseness and the front rotors for "warp.".
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If the bearings are OK, you'll need to have the rear brake discs machined to correct their warp. Now, after the discs are corrected, the old pads may not "mate" or align well with the newly machined discs, so you should replace the front pads as well .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is an alignment issue with the front brake pads and discs. Take this vehicle to a reputable garage and ask the mechanic to check the front wheel bearings for wear or looseness and the front rotors for "warp.".
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New plugs and wires may be all that's necessary to cure the misfire. If this doesn't correct the problem, then go ahead and replace the distributor cap. Any auto parts store will carry the spark plugs, wires and likely the distributor cap for your vehicle. The procedure to replace these items is simple and can be found in any repair manual covering this vehicle. If you don't want to do the work yourself, you'll need what most garages call a "maintenance tune-up". This should cover the items mentioned above, depending on your engine and general factory recommendations. If the vehicle still shakes even after replacing the distributor cap, you could have a burned valve. Take this vehicle to a garage to confirm this and have any necessary work done.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Chances are the engine is misfiring in one or more cylinders
Did this start out as a relatively small issue that has gradually become worse?
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Have the mechanic check both the EGR and PCV valves since these are items that are often found to be the source of vacuum leaks. When talking with the mechanic, describe exactly what you've learned here.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and ask the mechanic to check for a vacuum leak.
Does this typically occur on cold, wet mornings when the engine is cold?
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Properly fit distributor caps should not allow moisture in, and in general OEM/factory products fit much better than aftermarket parts. Check the distributor cap for fitment and replace if necess.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Moisture in the distributor cap is likely causing a misfire.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and have the mechanic check the throttle position sensor.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and have the mechanic check the throttle position sensor.
Where is this vibration coming from?
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There are two methods of balancing -- static, with the wheels off the vehicle, and dynamic, with the wheels on. The dynamic method is best since it takes into account the brake disk (drum) and its influence on a wheel's balance.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the front wheels balanced
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There are two methods of balancing -- static, with the wheels off the vehicle, and dynamic, with the wheels on. The dynamic method is best since it takes into account the brake disk (drum) and its influence on a wheel's balance.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the front wheels balanced
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There are two methods of balancing -- static, with the wheels off the vehicle, and dynamic, with the wheels on. The dynamic method is best since it takes into account the brake disk (drum) and its influence on a wheel's balance. While the mechanic is balancing the wheels, he'll be able to determine if a wheel's tire or rim is "out of round". The wheel balancing procedure will usually correct a mild out of round condition. However, if a certain tire/rim is extremely out of round, it will need to be replaced.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the front wheels balanced
What most closely describes your brake issue?
What is causing this?
The most common problem may be a low brake fluid level.
Did this problem seem to coincide with any work performed on the vehicle?
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Take this vehicle back to the shop which performed the initial repairs. Explain to the service manager that the master cylinder push rod is out of adjustment. If brake work was not done, it's not likely the mechanic would have even gone near the master cylinder push rod. In this case, ask the service manager to have the vehicle inspected to determine the source of the issue.
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely the master cylinder push rod is not properly adjusted.
Is the brake fluid level low?
How do I check?
Check your owner's manual and find the brake master cylinder or brake fluid reservoir. Make sure the fluid is above the "low" level.
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First you should ask yourself, "How did the brake fluid level become low?" Could there be a leak somewhere in the brake system? The issue needs to be checked out more thoroughly. Were the brakes recently serviced and possibly the mechanic did not add enough brake fluid? .
Preliminary diagnoses:
You need to add brake fluid. Unscrew the top of the reservoir and carefully pour in the appropriate amount. Do not keep the cap off any longer than necessary.
Preliminary diagnoses:
We're sorry, but based on the information provided we are unable to determine the exact cause of your issue. But don't give up hope; we have a panel of mechanics available to help you. Feel free to leverage their wealth of automotive knowledge - it's on us.
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely there is an internal leak in the master cylinder. This vehicle will need either a new or rebuilt master cylinder
Preliminary diagnoses:
This is often caused by air bubbles forming in the brake lines. If the brakes were recently worked on, maybe the mechanic did not fully "bleed" the brake system. Or worse, there could be a leak somewhere in the brake system which is consequently allowing air to enter. In either case, take the vehicle to a reputable shop and ask the mechanic to check for leaks and to bleed the system
Why is this happening?
This problem usually points to something involving either the front tires, front suspension or front brakes. The rear of the vehicle probably isn't a factor here. Why? Because, the front tires control the steering (thus "pulling") while the front brakes do most of the braking
Are the front tires unevenly inflated?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Add air to the tire with lower air pressure (find the recommended pressure in your owner's manual or tire sidewall). The imbalance in tire pressure is causing pull.
To check for further problems, you will need to remove the front tires and examine the brake discs and pads. If you are not comfortable with this, take the car to a mechanic. Are the brake discs or pads on one side thicker than those of the other side?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Depending on what did not match up from side-to-side (either pads or rotors), the vehicle will need a new, matching set
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely that you have a front alignment issue. Have the alignment checked. If this is not the problem, then one of the front brake calipers is probably either faulty or leaking. Have a mechanic look at the car right away.
Is this happening in the front of the car?
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If you're lucky, a corroded support bracket will be the cause. This will only mean cleaning the bracket with a wire brush and then coating it with a suitable lubricant. However, if the support bracket looks good and is free of corrosion, the caliper's piston could be seized. If this is the case, you'll have to replace not only the seized caliper but the other front brake caliper as well since both calipers must match or the vehicle may pull when braking.
Preliminary diagnoses:
A front brake caliper or piston is seized. Take this vehicle to a reputable repair shop and ask the mechanic to inspect the front brake unit which doesn't seem to be fully releasing.
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If you're lucky, a corroded support bracket will be the cause. This will only mean cleaning the bracket with a wire brush and then coating it with a suitable lubricant. However, if the support bracket looks good and is free of corrosion, the caliper's piston could be seized. If this is the case, you'll have to replace not only the seized caliper but the other front brake caliper as well since both calipers must match or the vehicle may pull when braking.
Preliminary diagnoses:
A rear brake caliper or piston is seized. Take this vehicle to a reputable repair shop and ask the mechanic to inspect the rear brake unit which doesn't seem to be fully releasing
Is the brake pedal sticking when you step on it?
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If you're lucky, a corroded support bracket will be the cause. This will only mean cleaning the bracket with a wire brush and then coating it with a suitable lubricant. However, if the support bracket looks good and is free of corrosion, the caliper's piston could be seized. If this is the case, you'll have to replace not only the seized caliper but the other front brake caliper as well since both calipers must match or the vehicle may pull when braking .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Incomplete retraction of the brake pedal is causing the brakes to drag. Correct whatever it is that is causing the brake pedal to bind (like bunched up floor carpet). If you can't fix it yourself, take this vehicle to a garage as soon as possible.
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If you're lucky, a corroded support bracket will be the cause. This will only mean cleaning the bracket with a wire brush and then coating it with a suitable lubricant. However, if the support bracket looks good and is free of corrosion, the caliper's piston could be seized. If this is the case, you'll have to replace not only the seized caliper but the other front brake caliper as well since both calipers must match or the vehicle may pull when braking .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have a mechanic inspect this vehicle's master cylinder. A few items you may want check for are: the master cylinder push rod, a swollen primary piston cup and a blocked bypass port
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First, let's determine if this vehicle has a vacuum assisted power brake unit. Open the hood and locate the master cylinder. Refer to the vehicle's manual if you are having trouble. The power brake unit (whatever type) is located between the master cylinder and the firewall. A vacuum assisted unit will be a round plastic or metal canister, about 10" - 14" in diameter and about 4" - 7" deep. Is this what you found? If yes, you'll want to check the hose which connects the unit to the engine. Look for cracks or leaks and replace as necessary. If the hose looks OK or if this vehicle has a hydro-boost power brake unit (i.e. you did not identify a canister-type device as described above), seek the help of a qualified mechanic. Unfortunately, power brake units are "throw away" items and therefore when one goes bad, you'll probably have no choice but to replace it with a new one as opposed to having the unit rebuilt .
Preliminary diagnoses:
This is most likely a problem with the power brake unit. Have it replaced
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If contamination is confirmed by the mechanic, the source of the problem needs to be researched. One possibility is that something is leaking brake fluid onto the brake linings. Whatever the case, it must be fixed since this vehicle is very unsafe to drive in this condition .
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely that the brake linings are contaminated. Take this vehicle to a garage and ask the mechanic to check the brake linings for contamination
When does this happen?
During this sluggish initial forward movement, does the engine rev up?
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If this vehicle's transmission has bands which can be adjusted, find a qualified transmission mechanic and ask to have the bands adjusted. This procedure is generally inexpensive and it may correct the problem. Otherwise, a transmission tear down will be required in order for a mechanic to get at and fix or replace the slipping clutch .
Preliminary diagnoses:
The clutch associated with first gear is likely slipping. Unfortunately, this situation usually means that a tear down of the transmission is necessary in order to fix or replace the slipping clutch.
Why is this happening?
Like oil in the engine, when it comes to automatic transmissions the level and quality of the transmission fluid are vital for proper operation. Check the transmission fluid first.
Question not found
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Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one).
Preliminary diagnoses:
A wrong fluid level is affecting the hydraulics of the transmission. If the level is too high, you can drain some out (refer to the owner's manual for instructions). If the level is too low, add some fluid (again, refer to the owner's manual)
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Use only the type of fluid specified in this vehicle's owner's manual. Each automatic transmission is designed with certain fluid characteristics in mind and these must be met for the transmission to work properly. Using the wrong type of fluid will often cause more problems. Overheating is the most common cause of fluid breakdown. Some common causes of overheating fluid are: excessive stop-and-go driving, towing a trailer or another heavy load and driving in very hot climates. If any of these apply, check the transmission fluid more regularly and have it changed as needed. If none apply, it's possible the transmission fluid cooling system is faulty.
Preliminary diagnoses:
If the fluid level looks good, chances are there is something wrong with the fluid itself. Is the fluid milky or black? Does it have bubbles? If so, have the transmission fluid and filter changed.
Check the transmission fluid level. Is it low?
How do I do this?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside.
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one) .
Preliminary diagnoses:
A wrong fluid level is affecting the hydraulics of the transmission. If the level is too high, you can drain some out (refer to the owner's manual for instructions). If the level is too low, add some fluid (again, refer to the owner's manual).
Did you notice the fluid to be milky-like and/or have bubbles? Is it brown or blackish in color?
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Use only the type of fluid as specified in this vehicle's owner's manual. Why? Because, each automatic transmission is designed with certain fluid characteristics in mind and these must be met for the transmission to work properly. Using the wrong type of fluid will often cause more problems. Overheating is the most common cause of fluid breakdown. But then, why is the fluid overheating? Some common causes are: excessive stop-and-go driving, towing a trailer or a heavy load and driving in very hot climates. If any of these apply, check the transmission fluid more regularly and have it changed as needed. If none apply, it's possible the transmission fluid cooling system is faulty.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Change the transmission filter and fluid. Contaminated fluid is affecting the hydraulics of transmission
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If you're really lucky, this will solve the problem (assuming a clogged filter is the culprit). If that doesn't work, take this vehicle to a transmission specialist for inspection. A faulty transmission fluid pump is a common cause of this problem. Therefore, have the mechanic check it. If the pump is OK, this vehicle will probably need a transmission overhaul, which isn't going to be cheap.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Something is causing poor fluid pressure buildup. Have the transmission fluid and filter changed.
Is the transmission downshifting?
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If you're really lucky, this will solve the problem (assuming a clogged filter is the culprit). If that doesn't work, take this vehicle to a transmission specialist for inspection. A faulty transmission fluid pump is a common cause of this problem. Therefore, have the mechanic check it. If the pump is OK, this vehicle will probably need a transmission overhaul, which isn't going to be cheap
Preliminary diagnoses:
We're sorry, but based on the information provided we are unable to determine the exact cause of your issue. But don't give up hope; we have a panel of mechanics available to help you. Feel free to leverage their wealth of automotive knowledge - it's on us
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You'll need to determine if this vehicle uses a throttle valve cable or a kickdown switch/downshift solenoid. Check a manual covering this vehicle or call a local dealer's service department and ask one of the mechanics. In the case of a throttle valve cable, a simple adjustment of the cable may be all that's necessary. In the case of a kickdown switch and downshift solenoid, you'll be facing a more complicated and expensive evaluation and repair.
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is a problem with full throttle indicator mechanism. Have it checked by a mechanic
Why is this happening?
Like oil in the engine, when it comes to automatic transmissions the level and quality of the transmission fluid are vital for proper operation. Keeping things simple, and starting with the obvious, let's check the transmission fluid.
What is wrong with the transmission’s shifting?
Check the transmission fluid level. Is it low?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside.
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one)
Preliminary diagnoses:
An incorrect fluid level is affecting the hydraulics of transmission. If the level is too high, you can simply drain some out (refer to the owner's manual for instructions). If the level is too low, add some fluid (again, refer to the owner's manual)
Is the transmission computer controlled?
Preliminary diagnoses:
A faulty electronic sensor is likely. Take this vehicle to a transmission specialist and have them run some diagnostic tests.
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The first and least expensive thing to do is get the throttle valve linkage adjusted. Don't let a mechanic proceed with a transmission tear down until this linkage has been adjusted. Many upshift problems have been resolved by this quick procedure. If that doesn't do it, prepare yourself for a large repair bill. Whether the problem is the governor or possibly something more involved, it's not going to be cheap. Make sure you get several opinions before proceeding with any major work .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is either a problem with the throttle valve linkage or a faulty governor. Get the valve linkage adjusted and investigate the governor if issues persist.
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The first and least expensive thing to do is get the throttle valve linkage adjusted. Don't let a mechanic proceed with a transmission tear down until this linkage has been adjusted. Many upshift problems have been resolved by this quick procedure. If that doesn't do it, prepare yourself for a large repair bill. Whether the problem is the governor or possibly something more involved, it's not going to be cheap. Make sure you get several opinions before proceeding with any major work .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is either a problem with the throttle valve linkage or a faulty governor. Get the valve linkage adjusted and investigate the governor if issues persist.
Check the transmission fluid level. Is it low?
How do I do this?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside.
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one)
Preliminary diagnoses:
A wrong fluid level is affecting the hydraulics of transmission. If the level is too high, you can simply drain some out (refer to the owner's manual for instructions). If the level is too low, add some fluid (again, refer to the owner's manual)
If the fluid level looks good, chances are there is something wrong with the fluid itself. Is the fluid milky or black? Does it have bubbles?
How do I do this?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside.
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one)
Preliminary diagnoses:
Change the transmission fluid and filter, and have the transmission inspected if the problem persists.
Tell me more
The first and least expensive thing to do is get the throttle valve linkage adjusted. Don't let a mechanic proceed with a transmission tear down until this linkage has been adjusted. Many upshift problems have been resolved by this quick procedure. If that doesn't do it, prepare yourself for a large repair bill. Whether the problem is the governor or possibly something more involved, it's not going to be cheap. Make sure you get several opinions before proceeding with any major work .
Preliminary diagnoses:
A faulty electronic sensor is likely, or there may be an issue with the throttle valve linkage or governor. Take this vehicle to a transmission specialist and have them run some diagnostic tests.
Check the transmission fluid level. Is it low?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside.
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one)
Preliminary diagnoses:
A wrong fluid level is affecting the hydraulics of transmission. If the level is too high, you can simply drain some out (refer to the owner's manual for instructions). If the level is too low, add some fluid (again, refer to the owner's manual)
Did you notice the fluid to be milky-like and/or have bubbles? Is it brown or blackish in color?
Tell me more
Use only the type of fluid specified in this vehicle's owner's manual. Each automatic transmission is designed with certain fluid characteristics in mind and these must be met for the transmission to work properly. Using the wrong type of fluid will often cause more problems. Overheating is the most common cause of fluid breakdown. Some common causes of overheating are: excessive stop-and-go driving, towing a trailer or some heavy load and driving in very hot climates. If any of these apply, check the transmission fluid more regularly and have it changed as needed. If none apply, it's possible the transmission fluid cooling system is faulty
Preliminary diagnoses:
Change the transmission filter and fluid. Contaminated fluid is affecting the hydraulics of transmission
Tell me more
There are many things that can cause this problem. It's possible something other than the bands (if so equipped) or the fluid pump is at fault. There's just no way to know for sure without having a professional examine the transmission .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Chances are there is either a sticking pressure valve or a leaking vacuum hose. Replace the vacuum hose (if the transmission has one) and have a mechanic run some diagnostics if the issue persists.
Check the transmission fluid level. Is it low?
How do I do this?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside.
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one)
Preliminary diagnoses:
A wrong fluid level is affecting the hydraulics of transmission. If the level is too high, you can simply drain some out (refer to the owner's manual for instructions). If the level is too low, add some fluid (again, refer to the owner's manual)
Did you notice the fluid to be milky-like and/or have bubbles? Is it brown or blackish in color?
Tell me more
Use only the type of fluid specified in this vehicle's owner's manual. Each automatic transmission is designed with certain fluid characteristics in mind and these must be met for the transmission to work properly. Using the wrong type of fluid will often cause more problems. Overheating is the most common cause of fluid breakdown. Some common causes of overheating are: excessive stop-and-go driving, towing a trailer or some heavy load and driving in very hot climates. If any of these apply, check the transmission fluid more regularly and have it changed as needed. If none apply, it's possible the transmission fluid cooling system is faulty
Preliminary diagnoses:
Change the transmission filter and fluid. Contaminated fluid is affecting the hydraulics of transmission
Tell me more
There are many things that can cause this problem. It's possible something other than the bands (if so equipped) or the fluid pump is at fault. There's just no way to know for sure without having a professional examine the transmission .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires.
Tell me more
If this vehicle's transmission has bands and further, if they are the type which can be adjusted (not all are), have them adjusted. This should help so long as each band's lining hasn't worn too much. Otherwise, you will be facing a costly repair if the drivetrain is no longer under warranty. Also, every garage in town will tell you they'll need to do a transmission tear down in order to determine the exact cause of the problem, because it's impossible to know for sure what the cause is until the transmission is opened up
Preliminary diagnoses:
You will have to get a mechanic to do a transmission tear down in order to determine the exact cause of the problem. It may be a faulty clutch or band
Why is this happening?
This is likely a front suspension issue.
When does this happen?
More information
In general, there are two possible causes of this problem -- overinflated tires or seized shocks/strut cartridges .
How would you best describe the vehicle ride?
Are your tires overinflated?
How do I check?
Take a look at the side of your tire or your owner's manual. There you will see recommended tire pressure levels. Use a tire pressure gauge (available at any auto parts store) to check the tire pressures and make sure they fall within the recommended range.
Preliminary diagnoses:
The tires are overinflated. Let some air out of the tires. Use a tire pressure gauge to make sure the tires are at the correct pressure (see the tire sidewall or the tire manufacturer's specification).
Tell me more
If the shop tries to sell you shocks and/or strut cartridges for all four wheels, consider having only the front done for now as the fronts generally go out first and may be all that's needed. If not, you can always have the rears done later. Most vehicles have struts in the front and shocks in the rear, and most struts have replaceable cartridges. Therefore, don't let a mechanic replace the entire strut unless the strut is bent or is in some way clearly damaged .
Preliminary diagnoses:
You'll need to take this vehicle to a reputable shop and ask the mechanic to inspect the shocks/strut cartridges. More specifically, ask him to determine if one or more is indeed seized.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Your vehicle's shocks and/or strut cartridges need to be replaced.
Preliminary diagnoses:
We're sorry, but based on the information provided we are unable to determine the exact cause of your issue. But don't give up hope; we have a panel of mechanics available to help you. Feel free to leverage their wealth of automotive knowledge - it's on us.
Tell me more
First, you'll need to determine if this vehicle has shocks or struts in the front. If it has shocks, having them replaced should correct the problem. If not, this condition could lie with the springs, but that's unlikely since springs generally last the life of the vehicle. If this vehicle has struts, you can either have the entire strut replaced or, in many cases, simply replace the strut cartridges. Call a local dealer's service department and ask if the front struts of the make/model in question have replaceable cartridges. To confirm worn or faulty shocks/strut cartridges do the following -- step down on the front bumper several times to get it bouncing and let off. If it continues to bounce more than once, the shocks/strut cartridges are worn or faulty. Take care of this problem very soon because, with each "thump", certain front end components are being damaged .
Preliminary diagnoses:
The front shocks or front strut cartridges are worn or faulty. Have them inspected and replaced if need be.
Why is this happening?
This problem is usually caused by one or more faulty front end components.
When does this change in steering feel occur?
Does your steering feel loose and sloppy, especially at higher speeds?
Are the tire pressure readings higher than the recommended maximum pressure displayed on the side of the tire
How do I check?
Take a look at the side of your tire. There you will see recommended tire pressure levels. Use a tire pressure gauge (available at any auto parts store) to check the tire pressures and make sure they fall within the recommended range.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Let some air out of each tire. Refer to this vehicle's owner's manual for the correct air pressure. Doing this should improve the steering problem.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Loose or worn steering or front suspension components are the issue. Have a mechanic inspect this vehicle and make any necessary repairs
Preliminary diagnoses:
----result is missing in doc ---
Is the steering wheel shaking at a certain speed?
Tell me more
This procedure is fairly inexpensive and will often fix the problem. However, if the problem persists after the wheels have been balanced, the front end of this vehicle will need to be inspected .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the front wheels balanced.
Preliminary diagnoses:
We're sorry, but based on the information provided we are unable to determine the exact cause of your issue. But don't give up hope; we have a panel of mechanics available to help you. Feel free to leverage their wealth of automotive knowledge - it's on us.
Does the steering wheel not want to easily return to its "normal" position?
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An alignment job should fix this problem. It's possible, but rare, that an alignment job won't fix it though. This would definitely indicate that one or more steering components are binding and will need to be fixed .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have an alignment job done on this vehicle.
Preliminary diagnoses:
We're sorry, but based on the information provided we are unable to determine the exact cause of your issue. But don't give up hope; we have a panel of mechanics available to help you. Feel free to leverage their wealth of automotive knowledge - it's on us.
Tell me more
Go to a repair shop and ask the mechanic to inspect the power steering system. Have him confirm that the cause of this problem indeed lies with the power steering pump. When talking with the mechanic, explain to him exactly what you've learned here. This problem is potentially hazardous, so have the necessary repairs done soon .
Preliminary diagnoses:
The control valve assembly will need to be replaced. However, note that most garages will only replace the entire steering rack and pinion unit
Preliminary diagnoses:
If the steering stiffens up at random, you'll need to have the power steering pump replaced.
Do your front tires have uneven pressures?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Make sure both front tires are at the correct pressure - this should correct the slight "pull" of the vehicle. Refer to this vehicle's owner's manual if you aren't sure of the correct tire pressure
Tell me more
Whenever the wheels are out of alignment, the tires will wear abnormally. Therefore, have this problem taken care of soon to avoid further tire wear. Some mechanics may tell you they can't do an alignment properly without first replacing one or more front end parts. While this may be true, if this is what a mechanic tells you get a second opinion before proceeding with any such repair.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Make sure both front tires are at the correct pressure - this should correct the slight "pull" of the vehicle. Refer to this vehicle's owner's manual if you aren't sure of the correct tire pressure
Choose a symptom:
What isn’t working properly?
Are the tires on this vehicle low on air?
How do I check?
Take a look at the side of your tire. There you will see recommended tire pressure levels. Use a tire pressure gauge (available at any auto parts store) to check the tire pressures and make sure they fall within the recommended range.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Add air to the tires. Make sure you don't exceed the pressure level as specified in the vehicle's owner's manual.
Is there a lot of dirt on the air filter?
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side of the filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It's an air filter -- of course it's going to be dirty. What we're trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it's either partially or fully clogged .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the air filter. If this doesn't solve the problem, please rerun this diagnostic for further analysis
Tell me more
You'll need to have a mechanic replace either the PCV valve or its connecting hose depending on which is clogged. If you ignore this problem for long, you will waste money because of poor gas mileage and worse, the overly rich air/fuel mixture will likely damage the catalytic converter. In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items related to the above. For now, just stick with the replacement of the PCV valve and its hose. This should correct the problem. You can always return at another time for the other items the mechanic suggested. To check for oxygen sensor issues, take this vehicle to a garage for a scope-based diagnostic checkup. The mechanic will hook your engine up to a scope analyzer from which they should be able to tell if the oxygen sensor is the culprit. If so, have it replaced .
Preliminary diagnoses:
A clogged PCV system or faulty oxygen system is likely causing poor gas mileage. Have a mechanic check these systems.
Is there a lot of dirt on the air filter?
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side of the filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It's an air filter -- of course it's going to be dirty. What we're trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it's either partially or fully clogged .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the air filter. If this doesn't solve the problem, please rerun this diagnostic for further analysis
Tell me more
You'll need to have a mechanic replace either the PCV valve or its connecting hose depending on which is clogged. If you ignore this problem for long, you will waste money because of poor gas mileage and worse, the overly rich air/fuel mixture will likely damage the catalytic converter. In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items related to the above. For now, just stick with the replacement of the PCV valve and its hose. This should correct the problem. You can always return at another time for the other items the mechanic suggested. To check for oxygen sensor issues, take this vehicle to a garage for a scope-based diagnostic checkup. The mechanic will hook your engine up to a scope analyzer from which they should be able to tell if the oxygen sensor is the culprit. If so, have it replaced .
Preliminary diagnoses:
A clogged PCV system or faulty oxygen system is likely causing poor gas mileage. Have a mechanic check these systems.
When does this occur?
What is causing this?
It is definitely unsettling to turn off the key, and hear the engine continue to run. Several different things can cause an engine to do this. Let's see if we can figure out what is going on here, so you're not stuck sitting in your car waiting for the engine to stop.
Does the engine idle at high rpm?
Tell me more
The idle speed generally can't be adjusted on fuel injected engines and, when it can, it is often too difficult for the average person. In reality, correcting the idle speed on a fuel injected engine usually involves replacing a failed part such as the idle air bypass valve or the idle speed control motor. Further, since fuel injection systems rely on various electronic sensors to control their operation, one of these sensors may have failed, causing the idle speed to be too fast .
Preliminary diagnoses:
The engine idle speed must be lowered. This is a very technical process and a professional mechanic is recommended
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You'll need to have a mechanic verify that the injectors are indeed leaking. Get this issue taken care of quickly .
Preliminary diagnoses:
The fuel injectors may be leaking.
Does this only happen when the engine is hot?
Tell me more
Use a high octane fuel (i.e. premium) from now on. High-octane, premium gasolines have an octane rating of 91 or above. The octane rating is easy to determine -- it is always displayed on the front of any gas pump .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Low quality fuel is causing engine run on
Have you been filling your gas tank with low octane (i.e. regular) gas?
Tell me more
There isn't much you can do since this problem is a normal consequence of an extremely hot engine. However, you might try using gasoline that has a higher octane rating than what you're currently using. This could help since higher octane gas is fairly resistant to engine "run on". Why is the engine getting so hot? If you're towing a trailer in 120 degree heat (or something similar), that would explain it. Otherwise, this vehicle probably has a cooling system problem .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Extreme internal engine heat is causing run on
Preliminary diagnoses:
We're sorry, but based on the information provided we are unable to determine the exact cause of your issue. But don't give up hope; we have a panel of mechanics available to help you. Feel free to leverage their wealth of automotive knowledge - it's on us.
Is there a lot of dirt on the air filter?
How do I check?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side of the filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It's an air filter -- of course it's going to be dirty. What we're trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it's either partially or fully clogged .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the air filter. If this doesn't solve the problem, please rerun this diagnostic for further analysis
Tell me more
You'll need to have a mechanic replace either the PCV valve or its connecting hose depending on which is clogged. If you ignore this problem for long, you will waste money because of poor gas mileage and worse, the overly rich air/fuel mixture will likely damage the catalytic converter. In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items related to the above. For now, just stick with the replacement of the PCV valve and its hose. This should correct the problem. You can always return at another time for the other items the mechanic suggested. To check for oxygen sensor issues, take this vehicle to a garage for a scope-based diagnostic checkup. The mechanic will hook your engine up to a scope analyzer from which they should be able to tell if the oxygen sensor is the culprit. If so, have it replaced .
Preliminary diagnoses:
A clogged PCV system or faulty oxygen system is likely causing poor gas mileage. Have a mechanic check these systems.
Which of the following symptoms most closely describe the issue with car?
The likely issue?
Let's start with the obvious: when a vehicle won't start (assuming it's not out of fuel), the simplest and most obvious place to start is the battery .
Are the dash lights out or extremely dim?
Tell me more
When the solenoid goes bad, it's probably a good idea to have the entire starter and solenoid unit replaced with a rebuilt one. Call various shops for the best price .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the starter and solenoid.
Take a look at the battery terminals. Is there a noticeable amount of corrosion buildup on the terminals?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have a mechanic clean the battery terminals. If this doesn't help the issue, have your battery tested. It may be dead
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the battery tested. Chances are it is dead and will need to be replaced. This could also signify an issue with the starter.
What kind of noise does it make?
Are the dash lights out or extremely dim?
Tell me more
When the solenoid goes bad, it's probably a good idea to have the entire starter and solenoid unit replaced with a rebuilt one. Call various shops for the best price .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the starter and solenoid.
Take a look at the battery terminals. Is there a noticeable amount of corrosion buildup on the terminals?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have a mechanic clean the battery terminals. If this doesn't help the issue, have your battery tested. It may be dead.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the battery tested. Chances are it is dead and will need to be replaced. This could also signify an issue with the starter
Tell me more
Refer to a repair manual for this vehicle in order to locate the starter. Make sure all wires to the starter are tight and secure. If the wires seem OK, the problem is likely that your starter is simply bad. If this vehicle is under warranty, you're covered. If not, you'll need to find a mechanic to replace the starter. Consider a rebuilt starter as opposed to a new one. The rebuilds are less expensive and very reliable .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is a problem with your starter. Have the starter wiring checked and replace the starter if necessary
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely you have a bad starter drive or a worn ring gear. Have it towed to a shop and replace the starter or ring gear as needed.
Is the vehicle out of gas?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Fill the gas tank and try to start the car again.
Does this happen mostly in wet, damp conditions?
Tell me more
Properly fit distributor caps should not allow moisture in, and in general OEM/factory products fit much better than aftermarket parts. Check the distributor cap for fitment and replace if necessary .
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely moisture has worked its way into the distributor cap. You may want to replace it with a new factory item.
Does this happen mostly in wet, damp conditions?
How do I do this?
Checking this is easy, thankfully. Under the hood is a box, often rectangular in shape. This is where your air filter is hiding. Paying attention to which side of the filter is up, remove the filter and check it out. It's an air filter -- of course it's going to be dirty. What we're trying to see is whether or not it is so dirty that it's either partially or fully clogged .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the dirty air filter with a new one.
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely you have a damaged timing belt. Have it inspected and replaced if need be.
Check the transmission fluid level. Is it low?
How do I do this?
Look in your owner's manual if you are unsure as to where the reservoir is. There are 'high' and 'low' indicators inside .
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one) .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Add the appropriate level of transmission fluid.
Tell me more
Alternatively, you may want to have a mechanic check both the fluid and filter. Why is the fluid level wrong? If it's too high, someone added too much the last time the transmission was serviced. If it's too low, there's either a leak somewhere or the fluid is escaping through a faulty vacuum modulator (if so equipped). Have a mechanic inspect the transmission for leaks and check the vacuum modulator (again, if this vehicle has one) .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Since this vehicle isn't drivable, you'll need to have it towed to a garage. Ask the mechanic to check both the fluid pump and gear selector linkage. If he can't find the culprit, don't be surprised if he tells you the vehicle needs a new transmission. This isn't unreasonable since, after all, none of the gears work.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and have the mechanic check the gear selector linkage and parking lock pawl. Always use the emergency brake to keep the vehicle from rolling when it's parked.
What climate control system is giving you problems?
When does you’re A/C performance decrease?
How would you describe the change in performance?
Tell me more
This is being caused by a slow refrigerant leak and/or clogged condenser. It may be worth noting that the refrigerant R-12 (also known as "Freon") is extremely expensive. Why? Because, its production was banned beginning January 1, 1996, and therefore all that remains is the Freon produced prior to this date. Therefore, expect to pay a premium to have your A/C charged .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Have the condenser checked for dirt and debris and cleaned if necessary. This may fix the problem. If not, you'll need to take this vehicle to a garage and ask the mechanic to "charge" the A/C system (i.e. add refrigerant). Make sure to check for leaks.
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is a major refrigerant leak or A/C electrical problem. You can open the hood and look for obvious leaks, but it is best to have an expert check the system.
Does the A/C sometimes blow warm air, but only when the engine is hot?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Actually, nothing is wrong. The compressor is automatically disengaging to keep the engine from overheating. This is normal behavior.
Tell me more
In the case of a faulty expansion valve, the mechanic will probably have to do the following: locate any leaks, evacuate the A/C system (i.e. remove the refrigerant), repair any leaks found, replace the critical A/C component known as the "receiver/dryer" and then "charge" the A/C system (i.e. put new refrigerant in). A failing compressor, on the other hand, will have to be replaced .
Preliminary diagnoses:
It is likely that either the A/C expansion valve is freezing up, that your have a failing A/C compressor or an intermittent electrical issue. Have an expert take a look at it.
Is your heater not blowing warm air even after the engine heats up?
Does this vehicle have an automatic temperature control system?
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a specialist for further analysis. It is likely you have a problem with the ambient air sensor or blend door, but we can't be sure.
Tell me more
In this particular situation, some mechanics may suggest replacing the heater core in addition to fixing the heater control valve problem, claiming that the heater core is clogged and therefore is contributing to a low air temperature output. Although there may be some truth to this, usually fixing whatever is wrong with the heater control valve will dramatically improve heater performance. In other words, in most cases, replacing the heater core won't add that much to the heater's performance .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a shop specializing in heater repair and have the mechanic inspect both the heater control valve and the device that activates the valve, and have the necessary repairs done.
Preliminary diagnoses:
We're sorry, but based on the information provided we are unable to determine the exact cause of your issue. But don't give up hope; we have a panel of mechanics available to help you. Feel free to leverage their wealth of automotive knowledge - it's on us.
What best describes your issue?
Tell me more
Check the fresh air intake port for debris which may be blocking it. This port is located on the outside of the vehicle near the base of the windshield (you may have to open the hood to get full access to it). If the ducts still don't blow air after clearing debris from the intake or won't blow when set to "recirculate", you'll need to take this vehicle to a mechanic who has some expertise in auto A/C and heating systems. Unfortunately, in most cases the mechanic will need to remove the dashboard in order to get at the blower and the various ducts of the system .
Preliminary diagnoses:
There is a problem with the blower or a physical blockage of the ducts. Check the fresh air intake port for debris which may be blocking it. If this does not fix the problem, you'll need to take this vehicle to a mechanic who has some expertise in A/C and heating systems.
Tell me more
First off, locate this vehicle's fuse box. Refer to the owner's manual if you aren't sure where it's located. Once you've found the box, find the particular fuse that is associated with the blower (it should be labeled either "Heater" or "A/C"). Check to see if it's blown. If so, replace it with a fuse of the same amp rating, and if the blower works but then fails again, there is likely a short circuit somewhere, in which case you'll need professional assistance. If the fuse was intact, you likely have a failed blower motor or a problem .
Preliminary diagnoses:
The problem is likely a blown fuse or failed blower motor. Check the fuse and change it if need be. If this does not fix the problem, take the vehicle to a specialist.
Tell me more
Another possibility is a clogged catalytic converter. This condition can result in significant power loss, making your vehicle feel like it's towing a boat that has dropped anchor .
Is this vehicle’s top speed significantly less than it once was?
Tell me more
If the catalytic converter is found to be clogged, you will need to have a new one installed since catalytic converters can't be cleaned. Catalytic converters become clogged as a result of an overly rich air/fuel mixture (more fuel in the mixture than necessary). Therefore, have the mechanic check or adjust the air/fuel mixture as a safeguard .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and have the mechanic verify that the catalytic converter is indeed clogged.
Tell me more
Ok, we can rule out a clogged catalytic converter. This means we're back to our ignition/fuel system theory .
Does the engine run roughly, especially when idling?
Tell me more
If you aren't familiar with the procedure, refer to a repair manual which covers your specific car with your specific engine. Alternatively, you may prefer to have a professional replace the plugs and wires for you. New plugs and wires will likely improve the engine's performance .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires.
Tell me more
Most shops offer this service, but before having this done, you might want to try the following: the next two or three times you fill the tank, fill it with a name brand, premium gasoline. Better quality gasolines contain additives (e.g. detergents) that are designed to help keep injectors free from residue. After a few tanks, you may notice renewed power from this engine. However, if this doesn't work, you'll have to turn this vehicle over to a mechanic and have the injectors cleaned .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Replace the spark plugs and spark plug wires.
When does the engine stall?
Why is this happening?
For fuel-injection vehicles, stalling during idle is usually caused by a bad idle air bypass valve, a bad cold start valve or a bad fuel pressure regulator .
Does the engine only stall when it is cold?
Tell me more
In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items. For now, just stick with the replacement of the cold start valve. This should correct the problem. You can always return at a later date for the other items.
Preliminary diagnoses:
You'll need to have a mechanic verify that the cold start valve is faulty. If this is indeed the case, have it replaced.
Will the engine stay running if you lightly step on the gas pedal?
Tell me more
In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items. For now, just stick with the replacement of the idle air bypass valve. This should correct the problem. You can always return at a later date for the other items .
Preliminary diagnoses:
You'll need to have a mechanic verify that the idle air bypass valve is faulty. If this is indeed the case, have it replaced.
Tell me more
In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items. For now, just stick with the replacement of the idle air bypass valve. This should correct the problem. You can always return at a later date for the other items .
Preliminary diagnoses:
You'll need to have a mechanic verify that the idle air bypass valve is faulty. If this is indeed the case, have it replaced.
Over time, has this problem gradually become more frequent?
Tell me more
In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items. For now, just stick with the replacement of the cold start valve. This should correct the problem. You can always return at a later date for the other items.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and ask the mechanic to check for a vacuum leak. In particular, have the mechanic check both the EGR and PCV valves since these are items that are often found to be the source of vacuum leaks.
Does this typically occur on cold, wet mornings when the engine is cold?
Tell me more
Properly fitted distributor caps should not allow moisture in, and in general OEM/factory products fit much better than aftermarket parts. Check the distributor cap for fitment and replace if necessary .
Preliminary diagnoses:
Moisture in the distributor cap is causing a misfire.
Preliminary diagnoses:
Take this vehicle to a garage and have the mechanic check the throttle position sensor. Tell the mechanic exactly what you learned here. This is very important in that it shows you know something about the nature of this acceleration problem.
Why is this happening?
One cause of stalling is something called "vapor lock". This happens usually when the engine gets abnormally hot .
Does the engine stall only when it is abnormally hot?
Tell me more
Modern cooling systems are designed to cool the engine in even the warmest climates and conditions. This means that if your engine is vapor locking with any consistency, something is wrong, and should be repaired immediately. A hot engine will fail very quickly, even if it seems to otherwise be running normally .
Preliminary diagnoses:
When vapor lock strikes, the only thing you can do is wait for the engine to cool down. The real question is why the engine is getting so hot to begin with? Have a mechanic check your cooling system.
Tell me more
In a situation like this, some mechanics may offer to replace several other items. For now, just stick with the replacement of the cold start valve. This should correct the problem. You can always return at a later date for the other items.